330 volt "Shocking" Electric Deck of Cards!

330 volt "Shocking" Electric Deck of Cards! - (Electric Shock Kissing Prank)

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Here's how to make a deck of cards that will pump out a shocking 330 volts of electricity.  Stuart Edge used it in his "Electric Shock Kissing Prank" to show the ladies how a man can really put the sparks in a kiss.
the king of random
See the "Stuart Edge - Electric Shock Kissing Prank"

Download the Shocker Circuit Schematic here

Step 1: Watch the Video!

vedio 

 

WARNING: This electric shocker outputs around 330 volts DC, and delivers a surprising jolt.  Be familiar with dangers associated with electric shocks, minor burns, damage to tissues, and possibility of cardiac arrest.  This project should not be attempted without adult supervision and adequate training.  Misuse, or careless use, of tools or projects may result in serious injury.  Use of this video content is at your own risk.

Step 2: Modified Deck of Cards - Looks normal enough

This deck of cards may look normal enough, but it has a very shocking secret!  330 volts to be exact!

I made this gadget for Stuart Edge to use in his "Electric Shock Kissing Prank"

Using a magic card trick as a decoy, Stuart and his friend Kaitlin Snow got volunteers to kiss them to see if they could "feel the magic".

When their lips touched, a 330 volt connection was made and the sparks were flying.

Check out their video to see some awesome reactions!

But .. how does it work?

This is how I made it...

Step 3: The Secret Within

The secret is in the shocker circuit integrated into the deck.

When the "stealthy"oil tape electrodes are touched by the user and the volunteer, only 1 more connection needs to be made to complete the circuit.

In this case, the circuit is completed with a kiss, and that is where the majority of the electric shock is felt.

Have you ever felt magic in a kiss?

Using the deck to charge a capacitor, and discharging on a piece of aluminum foiled demonstrates the power that can be captured from the device.

Here's how to build it...

Step 4: The Shocker Circuit

I started by heading to a local drug store and stopping at the photo center.  They usually have a whole bin full of disposable cameras ready to be shipped for recycling, and I get them free each time I ask.

For this project, I had a FujiFilm Camera, model #1A2L1701.  No particular reason for this brand, it's just the one I picked first.

If you want to follow the next steps exactly, you can look for the model number on the outside of the casing.

Opening the case, you'll find a circuit board.  This board drives the camera flash and charges an electrolytic capacitor with 330 volts.  You'll probably get shocked you if you take it out bare handed.  To avoid getting shocked, use a piece of metal to short out the 2 leads on the capacitor, as seen in the pictures.

The circuit needs to conceal inside the deck, so it has to be made smaller.  Much smaller.

To do this, desolder the 5 components seen here in my free schematic diagram and solder the components directly to themselves as depicted.

I also chose to add a AAA battery holder and a 1M Ohm tuning potentiometer to adjust the voltage output.

3 wires come off the transformer.

1 goes to the potentiometer, 1 goes to battery positive, and the other goes to battery negative, and continues on out.

This should leave 2 leads exposed, which will later be attached to the shocker pads.

The last step is to fold some paper around the circuit, and fill with copious amounts of hot glue.  This should strengthen the components by holding them firm in place.

Step 5: Rig the Deck

My shocker circuit was the equivalent of 40 cards tall, so I used a hobby knife, and a plastic template I made to cut all 40 cards in a way that would accommodate the circuit.

The circuit is a good fit, and because nothing is glued together, the cards can move freely, giving the illusion that it's just a normal deck.

To make the secret shocker pads, I cut a hold in the bottom card, and wrapped conductive foil tape (from most hardware stores) through the hole, and around both sides.  The shocker circuit sits on top, and the wires connect to each respective pad.

Note:  The hole needs to be large enough that the pads won't touch each other and short out .. and the user needs to be aware that touching them both at the same time will result in an accidental self shock.

The last 11 or 12 cards just sit on top, can shuffle freely, and give the appearance everything is normal.

The best part is, it all fits back into the original packaging.

Step 6:

Stuart Edge brought me a nicer carrying case, and it was an easy transfer.  Now this gadget was 100% ready for his kissing prank video.

You can see him holding one side of the cards (one electrode) and the guest holding the other side (opposite electrode).

When they kiss, do they feel the magic?

You be the judge.

It's important to remember that even though the amount of current flowing in this circuit is extremely low, there may be risks associated with electric shocks.  It's important to be aware of the risks, and make safety a top concern.

Step 7: Closing Up

Well, there you have it!  That's how to put the electricity in your kiss.  But it's up to you to find your partner.

If you haven't see the video yet, it's not too late.  See it here!

vedio

If you like this project perhaps you'll like some of my others. Check them out at 

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Build a World's Smallest Electronic Shocker!

 by Plasmana

 Download  http://adf.ly/RNwW8

It is good to know if the tiny shocker is on or not, by adding a wonderful invention called the "LED", so you don't risk get bitten by the shocker again!

Disclaimer: This shocker can be dangerous if used improperly, it gives out about 400 to 450 volts, so I am NOT responsible if you or anybody are injured or killed by the shocker, the responsibility is yours...

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Improved instructable!
I have been asked by comments and email how to attach a LED to a shocker to indicate it is on. So I then decide to make another instructable how to do that.

And, I have copied and pasted everything from my original shocker instructable onto this instructable and greatly improved the text on every step, also added more steps and replaced some pictures. I am hoping it would be less confusing to you and understand the project better so you can have an higher success in completing this project. :-)

If you do find anything confusing or an error on this instructable, please let me know and I'll fix it.

Step 1: What type of disposable camera should I use?

• The best disposable camera you can use for this project are the "Boots" or "Polaroid" types, because they have everything you need.
• The "Kodak" type is a bit more difficult, you need to find the type that uses an LED indicator, NOT a neon bulb indicator, those types will not work. Also, the LED type cameras uses SMD resistors, so you will need to find or buy one 220 ohm and one 100 ohm resistors.
• All other types of cameras like "fuji" ect. will not work because they have an different and/or more complex circuitry.

Step 2: What else you will need from the junkbox and the toolbox...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hardly anything is needed for this project but the tools, all of the important bits are found in the disposable camera...

• Some bits wires
• AA battery holder (or other types of battery holder)
• Solder

And the tools...

• Soldering iron (with a micro-tip if you have one.)
• Hot glue gun.
• Desolder pump (it makes the job much easier, but you could probably get away with out one).
• Flat-head screwdriver.
• Wire strippers.
• Wire cutters.
• Pliers.
• Vice (to hold the shocker in place while soldering)

Also, if you don't know how to solder or having trouble, this guide can teach you how to solder and other cool little bits that are good to know.

Step 3: Slaughter the camera!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now this is going to be a fairly dangerous part, open up the camera and get the circuit out safely without getting shocked by the capacitor...

First, pry open the camera's case apart with a flat-head screwdriver or just use your hands if you like, but you are more likely to get shocked by the capacitor.
After you taken the camera's case off, discharge the capacitor with a insulated screw driver, and you may get a big loud spark, and after that, the capacitor is discharged... (Use a screwdriver you don't like because a charged capacitor will leave a fairly large scar on the metal part of the screwdriver!)

Also, to avoid getting shocked by the capacitor, wear plastic or thick gloves.

Great! You had done the dangerous step on this instructable! Some people say this is the fun part because you get a nice big and loud spark!

Step 4: Gut the camers's components

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Okay, after you had took apart the camera and discharge the capacitor...
Desolder all of the wanted components off the camera's circuit (I desolder all of mine off of the camera board).

The components we will need from this camera are...

• Ferrite transformer with five pins
• 22nF film capacitor
• Transistor (NPN type)
• Diode
• Red LED
• 220 ohm resistor - Color code: Red/Red/Brown
• 100 ohm resistor - Color code: Brown/Black/Brown

As you might have know, the ferrite transformers has different tape colors, it does not matter what color they are, they are all the same. I don't know why they have different colors...

The 330v 80uF capacitor can be fun to use, you can make a capacitor bank with a bunch of 'em and makes some big bad ass sparks or use it to make a powerful coilgun on this instructable! Coilgun Handgun
You can do some really interesting light effects with the xenon tube if you put it near the plasma globe...

Also, be very careful when desoldering (and soldering) the transistor, they are quite heat sensitive because they very small. So try desolder it quickly otherwise the transistor will burn out without showing any signs of being dead. Using the dead transistor on the shocker will give you some very low output voltage results like 0.41v or something like that. This makes some people think this instructable is a scam, it is not, it is because they burnt out the transistor without knowing it...

To reduce the risk of a burnt out transistor, clip an alligator/crocodile clip onto the leads of the transistor (or the case if there is no room to put the clip on the leads). The clip will act like an heatsink, this should give you some more time to desolder the transistor.

Step 5: The difficult bit...

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Okay, this is the difficult part of the project, making the shocker itself...

Because we want to make this shocker small, it is a good idea to use a magnifying glass so you can see what you are doing and avoid make any solder bridges.

I also made a schematic and a design to show to show you how the shocker is made.

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Start with the five pin ferrite transformer.

It is important that the transformer has 5 pins, if the transformer has 4 or 6 pins, it will not work for this project.

Step 6: Solder on the transistor

Solder the transistor's base lead to the pin 4 of the transformer and solder the transistor's collector lead to the pin 1 of the transformer.

The transistor's emitter lead is the ground.

Step 7: Solder on the 200 ohm resistor.

Solder one lead of the 220 ohm resistor to the pin 2 of the transformer and solder the resistor's other lead to the pin 3 of the transformer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 8: Solder on the diode

Solder the cathode lead of the diode to the pin 5 of the transformer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 9: Solder on the film capacitor

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Solder one lead of the film capacitor to the anode of the diode and solder the other lead of the capacitor to the pin 2 of the transformer.

If the capacitor's leads are too short (like mine) to reach pin 2 of the transformer and the anode of the diode, just solder some some wires on the leads of the capacitor to make it longer.

Also, the film capacitor has no polarity (like the resistors), so you can connect it any way round.

Step 10: Solder on the 100 ohm resistor

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Solder one lead of the 100 ohm resistor to pin 3 of the transformer.

The other lead will be connect the LED.

Step 11: Solder on the LED

Solder the anode lead of the LED to 100 ohm resistor's lead.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then solder the cathode lead of the LED to the transistor's emitter lead.

Step 12: Wires...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Solder the ground wire (black) from the battery to the emitter lead of the transistor and the cathode of the LED.

Solder the positive wire (red) from the battery to the pin 2 of the transformer.

And solder the high voltage output wire (blue) to the cathode of the diode and the capacitor.

Step 13: Bend everything down...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then, gently push all the components onto the side of the transformer and use hot glue if needed.

Step 14: Construction on shocker completed and being tested..

Okay, now you built your shocker and it is time to test it...

You should get between -400 to -450 volts out of the shocker. My multimeter is reading -438 volts from my shocker.

If yours does not work, calm down, don't get so angry and blow off your head about hours of work for nothing.

• First, check your shocker closely, are there any solder bridges? If so, remove them and replace the transistor.
• If it still does not work, you probably burnt out the transistor from putting the soldering iron on its leads for to long, replace the transistor and don't keep the soldering iron on its leads for to long again. If it still does not work...
• Then the ferrite transformer's internal wiring might be damaged if you went rough with it trying to get it out of the camera board. Build another shocker, because you cannot repair a tiny transformer (unless you have the proper equipment to do so!)

And if it STILL does not work, well I guess you can you can go very angry, and smash up the shocker with a hammer and get over it. Or try make another one...

Step 15: Two ways to attach the shocker to the battery holder...

Maybe more...

You can connect the shocker in a crude and simple way by using lots of wires... However, it would be quite difficult to use with all those dangling wires.

Or you can spend a little more time soldering and gluing the shocker and switch onto the battery holder to make the shocker more portable and easy to use.

Step 16: Have fun electrocuting people and don't get caught by the police!

Okay, now that you had built a shocker with a useful LED indicator, what is stopping you from going outside and electrocute your friends (and perhaps strangers)? Also, watch out for police who is looking for trouble!! (That wouldn't be good!)

To use the shocker, the victim must touch the live -400v wire and the +1.5v wire to get a unpleasant shock...

The pain of a 400v shock is the equivalent of getting a really nasty static shock from a car. But the shocker gives a continuous shock...
Also, if you want the shocker to give more painful shocks to the victim, you just simply increase the input voltage!

So, if you give it:

• 1.5v input = 450v output.
• 3v input = 900v output.
• 4.5v input = 1200v output.
• 9v input = 2700v output. (OUCH!)

Beware the higher voltage you give to the shocker, the sooner it will burn out. If you give the shocker 9 volts, it WILL not survive longer than a few seconds, or it may immediately blow up... It is the best if you feed your shocker only 1.5 volt, it may hurts less, but it won't burn out.

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There is one funny idea that Kiteman thunk up...

What you can do is wire up the shocker to a battery with a switch and make the 400v wire and the 1.5v wire long and then box it up in a small plastic case (except the long wires) to prevent shocking your self...

Then put the shocker in your pocket and have the long wires running down your jacket or long sleeve and put a insulator like a bandage on your finger tip to insulate you (so you don't shock your self). Then put the bare ends of the wires on top of the bandage and tape it down.

And now you are for some fun! Go into the crowded school corridor and touch people with your electrified finger tip, you might not want to touch the girls as they have a bad habit of screaming their head off if they get an unexpecting surprise, but go ahead and touch them if you want...
Or maybe go into the dinner queue and shock people as they slap the mashed potato on his/her tray...

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So, what other funny and things can you think up for this small shocker?

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